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This has been a long time coming. I've finally tried Rogue perfumes after being reasonably 'outspoken' (I understand what IFRA does and crucially what it doesn't do) about the tactic of using non compliance with IFRA as a sales tool and even the whole name of the line being 'Rogue' not sitting with me well at all. In the interests of a broader, less stuffy view of perfumery, I was obviously willing to give these fragrances a try, and I have to say...they're rubbish. hahah No they're not. No disrespect to Cross who I remember being in BN DIY forum once upon a time. I guess the problem I have here is that if your passion is old, discontinued vibes, you're not really looking to be hugely creative (might be being unfair as I've only sampled 3 of them) you're more likely to adapt a old Mitsouko or Coty Chypre formula that is knocking around among hobbyists on the internet, and there's nothing wrong with that. I don't think it's misrepresented, people buying artisan, punk, or 'Rogue' perfume from an Etsy shop are expecting this. Frankly I want more though. It's like competently recreating a recipe at home and adding your own 'twist' it's all fine but it's never going to be anything more elevated than good, home cooking of a slightly hackneyed dish. In this case the dish is a kind of powdery Chypre, which don't get me wrong I massively enjoyed. The opening 5 minutes or so are an absolute treat, fresh citrus and peachy lactones, powdery but dry and retrained floral musk, and a little more animalic perhaps than modern chypres iterations. I mean it's nice after that too, but it starts to come apart somewhat and that's where the amateurish nature of the formula and likely the quality of materials used starts to show it up a bit. It smells like a vision of Mitsouko but made in someone's garage, and with not nearly enough elongation or transition between accords. There's no twinkle or anything that makes it stand out. I feel mean saying this, I don't mean to be, honestly if I made this I'd think it was a decent well rounded perfume.
Chypre-Siam is an absolutely delightful creation and a must have for those who enjoy vintage-style chypres. The opening is dominated by a bitter, rindy and refreshing kaffir lime with aromatic touches of basil. Soft touches of slightly powdery, delicate jasmine and ylang begin to shine not long after which smooths out the overall scent profile. The star of the show is the oakmoss, which harks back to the bygone glory days of chypre perfumes. This thick, creamy mossy perfection elevates this scent to another level, taking you back to a more classical place in time. Subtle hints of civet and warm spices provide an addicting sharp bitterness in the background, secondary to the oakmoss. This fragrance is truly fantastic, the use of oakmoss reminds me heavily of my vintage Miss Dior which I absolutely adore. The quality is fantastic, this is an absolute must have for those passionate about vintage-style perfumery.